Week 4, Day 2 Saturday 25th March

Kirkwall - Cathedrals, Campsites and Hen Nights 

A morning drive to St Margaret Hope revealed nothing of use to the nomad, not so much as a coffee shop, let alone a WiFi signal. So, an about-turn took me to Kirkwall to revisit the sights of the capital. After a light lunch at the Real Food Cafe I 'did' St Magnus Cathedral. Magnificent Gothic construction, and a different selection of historical figures than we get in the UK, because of the mixture of Scottish and Norwegian players in a bloody game of mediaeval power struggles. Magnus was martyred (an axe blow to the head, since you ask) but it was his nephew who was left to fulfil his uncle's promise to build a great structure. And a good job he made of it. The organist was practising while I was there, which is always a nice treat on such visits. I paid my customary respects to my absent fellow travellers with a pair of candles. 

Outside the Cathedral I had a special surprise treat - a Blackening was in full swing. The thoroughly 'tarred' Bride-to-be and her bridesmaids were firmly cling-filmed to the stone cross, cans of drink with straws strapped inside the sheath. Below, a truckload of their tormentors, well-oiled as well as treacled, abandoned them to make their noisy circuits of the streets. Now, those of you who have read Ninety-nine Days will remember that Cate had encountered this unique Orcadian tradition during our stay in Stromness, and her picture of the hapless groom is in the book. (If you haven't got the book, shame on you, but it's still available from Amazon - all royalties to the Pilgrims hospice.)

(En passant, I found the only shoe shop in the town and replaced the soggy and leaky ones I had worn at Pool Farm, now in the bins.)

Tbere are a number of disappointments in this visit, related to my decision to travel before Easter, of which more later (I think of these as my Lenten penances). Today's edition is that the Scapa distillery won't be open until I've left the Islands, and that was the one visit I would have liked to do (not the more ubiquitous Highland Park). C’est la vie again. I'd also hoped I could revisit Reel, a traditional music cafe which was home to a famed music school: I visited with Cate in 2012, though without live music. Accordingly, next in my Lent penance catalogue, Reel closed with the pandemic, has never reopened, and can't achieve the necessary funding. Sad. 

Finally, a happy chance. As I parked by the harbour, I'd pretty much decided I'd prefer that as a 'wild' camp to the soggy farm, and looked at the relevant  app for reviews of the options. One stood out because it was close to a large leisure centre, where it was possible to get a shower for £1. I called them to confirm, but in accessing their web site I found there's a small camp site affiliated to the centre, not run directly by the council, which is why I hadn't found it in my searches (3 council run sites don't open til April. So I'm now settled in their tiny but perfect site, with showers, WiFi, lounge and all mod cons until I leave Orkney. I drove to Pool Farm to retrieve my electric cable then completed my check-in at the leisure centre, which also houses the cinema. 

So for my evening meal I did the 15 minute walk to the Kirkwall Hotel, where I am now, after a good meal (and some Highland Park) But I'll definitely get a cab for the return. Xxxxxxxx