Monday 18th April, W7D4


I write from my 'wild' camping spot on Raasay, having just yomped down to the van from the Raasay Distillery after my meal, guided by torchlight down the 10 minutes walk home. Probably not helped by several whites and reds and a wee nightcap of the local produce. Anyway I made it 'home' OK having decided that the walk there and back would be safer than the short drive. And anyway I didn't want to risk losing my perfect Park4Night spot.

I left the Portree Campsite this morning and headed for Sconser for the ferry to Raasay, which leaves almost every hour until 7pm, and enjoyed the receding view of Skye and passing Scalpay as we approached Raasay, a short hop across the Sound, where Cate and I had previously sailed, without any prospect of landing, but noted that there is now a good number of brand new pontoons, inviting for leisure sailors.

Noting this possible place for my night as I passed, I drove on up the steep hill to the Distillery and checked my booking for tomorrow. My plan had been to have dinner this evening at Raasay House, but when I got there I found it's closed Sunday and Monday, but a helpful lady said she thought the distillery did evening meals. As I was now close to the suggested sights in my (sometimes) trusty walks guide, I walked round the walled garden (lots of work going on, but not much to see) and then to the ruined Chapel of St Moluag (I know, me neither), which houses more McLeod graves than you could shake a big stick at. (One airman kia aged 22 in 1941).

There is a big Hill behind the church known as Temptation Hill, because it's where English financier EH Wood looked down and decided to buy it Raasay House and the island with it. I wasn't tempted, even though Samuel Johnson in his travels was said to have danced a jig on the summit. 
The Raasay branch of clan McLeod didn't do too well, partly because the then chief commissioned two life-sized mermaid statues for his gates, but lost most of his fortune in a law suit against the agent who found and erected them because he said they were greater than life-size. See what you think. How big is a mermaid anyway? 
Having established that I could blag my way into a meal at the distillery intended only for resident guests, I had a brief rest back at the van, and walked up the long hill and was pleased to be invited to join two couples (mostly retired or semiretired GPs) for a six course tasting menu. Both the company and the food proved excellent (albeit pricey of course). And here I am where this entry began, tucked in behind a derelict building just off the ferry access road, and therefore devoid of traffic outside ferry times, with access to toilets at the jetty.
Thanks to Park4Night for the excellent steer. Night night. 

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