Monday 3rd April, W5D4


Did my weekly laundry in the excellent Scourie facilities before setting off south. I had Ullapool in mind (mostly for my eventual Stornoway ferry) but with as yet no definite plan for an overnight stay. One Campsite I called doesn't open until Friday, and although I had high hopes for a BritStop in the Ullapool Hotel car park, I'd read somewhere that they have stopped allowing that since the good reports from last year. Anyway, ever the optimist, I set off knowing that at least there will be some interesting views along the way through the wild Assynt terrain. The first of these was the brilliant Kylescu Bridge

I then had the option to stay on the 'major' road for Ullapool, or to take 'The Road Less Travelled' (marked 'unsuitable for caravans'), so guess which one I chose. More dramatic off-piste driving. My Google maps did warn me, that the main road was about a 15 minute drive, while my chosen option was 53 minutes on what it calls the coastal route. To be honest I didn't see much coast, but plenty deep gorges, passing places, and blind summits.


The main coastal exception was Clashnessie Beach. I'm not much of a beach lover, but I had to backtrack a few hundred yards to park and access this huge expanse of golden sand, the length of which I walked, enjoying the warm sunshine. Another walker pointed out some divers (birds, not people) by the far water's edge (though I don't know whether black- or red-throated variety.)


Then onwards to my next target - the famous Lochinver Larder, widely known for their range of pies. As I arrived they had just sold out of all their varieties, apart from a solitary chestnut and mushroom pie. I was quite hungry, not having eaten or drunk since my early porridge, so I had that (excellent), along with a bowl of delicious onion soup. Hopefully I can return for the venison and cranberry pie tomorrow, probably as a takeaway.

And the good news is that the Assynt Leisure Centre here by the harbour of Lochinver encourages campervan stays in their car park, limited to 3 vans, with use of the facilities when open. (I was in fact completely alone overnight.) So no electric power, but a quiet, safe, convenient overnight stay for a mere £9, including good WiFi! 5 minutes walk gets you to Peets (quiet and elegant) for food and drink, and 10 minutes to Delilahs (ditto but more lively!) I sampled both, but only for a beer. At least that way I did get my 10k steps in today!


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