Saturday 1st April, W5D2 (Oh yes it is!)


I sent this separately, but can't resist starting with today's dawn photo.



After that good start, it's been a day of adventure and some rather random travels. I first walked to the viewpoint above my beach, over a walkway guarded by railings, essential to prevent being blown over by the icy gale force wind. 



Then to Smoo Cave, a few miles from the camp, and the must-see site in Durness. Down 100 steep steps (feeling much steeper on the ascent). The cave opening is huge, and free to enter. It's possible to walk in as far as the waterfall, falling loudly as advertised, but to go further requires a guided caving session, and/or a boat ride, neither of which is yet on offer. The experience is nonetheless worthwhile. I was almost entirely alone, one family with two kids there just before me; as the school holidays have started, I'll see more such families on my travels from now, and a part of me really wished I could have enjoyed my own grandchildren shouting out to test the echo in the cave. I guess we've done our bit in the past, so best just to enjoy the benefits of peace and quiet instead!


At Balnakeil there is an extensive sandy beach, partly controlled by the nearby military firing range. Overlooking the beach is a ruined church dating to the 14th century, the burial site of 'Rob Donn' Mackay , the nation's most famed Gaelic poet. I found his memorial but couldn't find that of Elizabeth Parkes, John Lennon's aunt. It's been said that 'In My Life' was inspired by her resting place.

The other local feature of note is a small 'craft village', with a number of galleries with paintings and ceramics by local artists. A few were open, but I wasn't sufficiently tempted by the works. I was, however, more tempted by the famous Cocoa Mountain, where I relaxed with a Mocha and a couple of specialty choccies. Naughty but nice.

Onward from there, I decided to try and reach Cape Wrath, but Google Maps told me that wasn't possible. As I drove on southwards later I found that this is because the path can only be reached by a foot passenger ferry across the Kyle of Durness, not currently in operation



So I pressed on for another 30 minutes to Kinlochbervie, for no reason other than to enjoy yet more spectacular roads weaving through deep gorges between impressive bens, and alongside numerous sea lochs penetrating deep inland. Kinlochbervie is hardly a tourist magnet, being a commercial fish transportation hub, so I stopped only for a quick coffee, then backtracked, past my camp, to the Smoo Cave Hotel for excellent haddock and chips. Almost the end of another good day's touring on the NC500. 

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